The idea of heading south to seek out winter sun is not new. Many of our club members do exactly that. For me though, this was a new experience. Indeed for 4 of the 5 of us who flew out to Alicante in early February this was very definitely new territory. At least I have enjoyed cycling on the continent before, unlike some of the guys. There was a definite buzz as we drove through the snow to Newcastle airport, hoping that the uncommonly normal winter weather would not disrupt our flight. No need to worry, we were off and away and only 3 hours later touching down in sunny (and windy) Alicante.
Our base for the week was the town of Denia, in a villa owned by CicloCostaBlanca, who specialise in this sort of cycling break. Our "team" comprised myself, Kev (who was principal organiser-in-chief), Dave, Chris and Keith (he of previous experience!). Apart from Chris, we are all "experienced" 50-something riders, and this was the cause of some worry for Chris. He had visions of being blown away by our legendary endurance and expertise. We, on the other hand, felt that youth was on his side and we would be huffing and puffing to keep up.
Day 1. Castell de Castells and Coll de Rates
The day dawned bright, a promise of sun, but pretty breezy. Kev’s SMS weather check courtesy of Easyjet talked of fine weather, 14 degrees and ‘moderate’ winds. We all agreed that moderate was probably a euphemism. Anyway, it wasn’t raining - or snowing! Our first job was to build the bikes and ensure they had all travelled safely. This is always a heart-in-mouth moment, but everyone was soon twiddling about of two wheels
and we were ready for our first day in the saddle.
The plan, if we can call it that, was for one of the CicloCosta guys to guide us (and help us out with the local lingo which we were all totally unprepared for). Big Al was that man and he led us off heading into the mountains south-west of Denia. We were also joined, as we were for most of the week, by a young tyro, Andy, who is spending a few weeks out here training for the UK racing season back home. He was a bit handy!
After a few kilometres the road started its inexorable rise into the hills. The scenery is quite stunning, if a tad arid. The river beds were all bone dry, but there was a suggestion of raging torrents if the heavens open. The roads are perfect, with smooth surfaces and little traffic, a cyclist’s dream. Sadly, the wind which conspired to be in our faces all the way up the long valley climb (10km) was not what we dreamed of. Hard work? You bet. We sacrificed Big Al at the front to the benefit of the peloton before peeling off at Castell de Castells in search of a bar. Inside was like walking into a spaghetti western (in fact this was a recurring theme through the week). A group of old timers were banging down the dominos on a table centre stage, whilst a foursome of young pretenders played on the next table. They clearly had ambition to usurp the old boys. I suspect the old timers will make them wait.
After a dose of caffeine and bocadillos we were ready for the next part of our ride, a 5km climb out of Castell de Castells including a brutal steep ramp to begin with - well, that’s what Big Al told us. The reward was a sweeping 4km descent through a high mountain valley to Tarbena at speeds of 60kph, great fun. Then another steeper descent before the gradual climb to the Coll de Rates, high above the village of Parcent. This is a categorised climb and reveals stunning views of the coastal belt north of Denia. Now for the day’s reward, the long 7km descent from the Coll, definitely to be savoured. There was probably as much competition all week when it came to the descents as there was on the climbs. Kev, though, was the clear winner eschewing speed for style and elan. Naturally we waited at the bottom to cheer him in.
From Parcent it was downhill all the way (well almost) back to Denia and once again we let Big Al drive the peloton home. As an introduction to riding in Spain this had been a great day. Hard work, but with fantastic scenery and some amazing roads we all felt we just might enjoy the week ahead.
Total distance: 95.5km, ascent: 1374m
Day 2: Vall de Ebo and Vall de Gallinera
Another dry day, another windy day. The sun from yesterday had retreated however, and we were left with a dilemma - what to wear?! Easyjet SMS assured us we were in for a rain-free day, but cool. In the end we opted for optimism and went for summer tops and hoped the temperatures wouldn’t be too fresh. The plan was a big loop in the mountains, another 100km or so, heading west to Pego and up into Vall de Ebo, returning via the long descent down Vall de Gallinera. Andy joined us again, hoping to improve his local geographical knowledge, thereby reducing the risk of him getting lost when he goes out on his own!
The run up to Pego is pretty
uninspiring, apart from the long ‘straight of doom’, a 5km stretch of road which is as straight as a die, dragging ever so slightly up hill. Naturally enough we found that this was directly into the wind making this much harder than it should have been, so we chose to let Andy do the work! Pego is not a tourist town. Indeed, it seems that they go to great lengths to deter tourists by creating a void - a lack of road signs makes navigating through the town nigh on impossible. After some 15 minutes during which we did a fairly comprehensive ride through all four quarters of the place, we finally found the right road taking us to the iconic Alto de Ebo climb.
There can be few climbs that are more enjoyable than this 8km ascent which winds and corkscrews its way up into the mountains. As the crow flies I suspect it is no more than 3km from the foot of the climb to the top, but the road conspires to turn this way and that at a gradient that is never too steep. Unleashed, Andy sped away to take the mountain points. As he is not a member of the team, sadly for him they don’t count. The views on the climb are stunning. My problem is that, as official photographer (albeit self-appointed), there is an opportunity round every corner. Whilst I am now pretty adept at capturing the moment on the move, sometimes you just have to stop. Reaching the top, I felt immediately that this is a climb to come back and do again later in the week.
Having regrouped we now had the speedy but short descent to Vall de Ebo, 3km below. A couple of hairpins and some ‘wiggles’, but not too technical. From here it was grind all the way up the valley on rolling roads into an increasingly irksome headwind. By now the sun was hiding behind the clouds and our spring day was not so springy any more. This was hard. Ah well, not to worry. Our reward was the most amazing café in Margarida, fellow BCW rider Calum had extolled its worth many times before we came out here. Our minds wandered thinking of the sumptuous feast that lay ahead. Rolling into Margarida some 20km later, the tumbleweed billowing in the wind and a lone scraggy canine patrolling the dusty streets, we were gutted to find that Margarida was shut. Calum, you owe us!
We needed a Plan B. Ahead now was the long 22km descent through the Vall de Gallinera, which we had hoped to enjoy in its entirety. Instead we were now on the lookout for somewhere we could grab a bite. Anywhere. Half way down we were rewarded at the Ta Casa bar in Bennissiva. Here the brown lentil soup is to die for. A cheeky beer to wash it down followed by the ubiquitous Americano and I felt as good as new. And we still had some 12km of descent still to go. Enjoy...
Back in beautiful downtown Pego the tourists were still nowhere to be seen, so we headed right through and back out along the ‘straight of doom’, with the wind now behind our backs. Now this is more like it. As Keith and Andy had their own private two-up, the rest of us mere mortals cruised back at a more sedate 27mph and soon we were back at base in Denia. The nice thing about the villa is the veranda/terrace where afternoon coffees were now the order of the day and we relived the day’s excitement.
Total distance: 100.4km, ascent: 1188m
Day 3: Alto Bernia and Montgo
The week is accelerating. Our third day promised warmer weather (Easyjet SMS is gospel) and still no rain. Must be summer gear today, then. Terry, our host, was joining us today as one of our guided rides. We had poured over the map and route cards the night before and felt an ascent of the Alto Bernia looked pretty cool. This is a 12km climb on a mountain loop pretty well due south of Denia above the village of Xalo.
After another relaxing and civilised breakfast (waiting for Keith to roll out of bed makes breakfast an easy part of the day) the peloton rumbled out of Denia through Gata and up toward Lliber and Xalo, the mountains now towering ahead of us.
In Xalo we turned off onto a (very) minor road, probably the worst surface we rode on all week. It still puts many UK roads to shame. The climb up the Bernia is just over 12km in length and really comes in four parts. Initially the road ramps up and soon sorts out the running order. Again, Andy was off and away looking for those points, with Keith in hot pursuit. I followed and pretty soon found a rhythm. After about 3km the road suddenly starts going downhill - bizarre. The countryside is relatively lush and the almond blossom is everywhere. Time to stop for another photo opportunity. Dave and Terry caught me and the chase was on. The road ramps up again and keeps going until, quite suddenly, the valley becomes mountain ridge and the views fall away below us. Wow! The last 3km is undulating and quick before a final bend and the top is gained. Great climb.
Kev and Chris soon joined us and we were now ready for the steep and somewhat bumpy descent on a decidedly uneven road surface, almost like being back in Cumbria. Kev and I brought up a dignified rear here as I made a detailed study of Kev’s descending skills for the forthcoming video. And, of course, there were one or two photo opportunities which could not be passed up. Dissent amongst the ranks bubbled under as we passed a delightful café/bar which just had to be the perfect lunchstop, high up in the mountain valley with sunshine and views in abundance. Why were the others not here, we wondered? No excuses either. Suitably annoyed we pottered our way down to Benissa where the others awaited our arrival. On we rode, getting ever closer back to Denia, and still no sign of the café stop. What was going on? We finally rolled into a small town only 10 miles or so from home and staggered into a small café with no view or sunshine. Not a good call.
The last part of our day’s ride included the category 3 climb over Serra del Montgo, only about 3km but enough to warm the legs after our delayed lunchbreak. Kev and I hatched our cunning plan whereby we rode off the back, before I launched him onto the climb and he would then storm to a rousing victory at the summit. He and Keith had a real ding-dong as they battled over what might prove to be key KOM points later in the week, with Kev just giving Keith the slip at the death. I took the minor points from Dave and Chris. Now came the smooth sweeping descent into Denia and coffee and cake at a café/bar on the marina front.
Total distance: 86.75km, ascent: 1266m
Day 4: Alto de Ebo (Rest day)
The week is gearing up towards a real biggie on Thursday, with a proper mountain stage over the Serra de Aitana to visit the spectacular Guadalest. Consequently it was agreed that a rest day would be a good idea ahead of that. Easyjet were on Kev’s mobile again, telling him to expect ‘light’ winds and sun. Sounds good to me. Kev and Chris felt that a 40 mile blast north along the flat coastal roads fitted the bill, whilst
I wanted to revisit Alto de Ebo for the chance to do the descent. Dave and Keith were up for that too. Another gentle ease into the day as we waited for Keith to get up before setting off toward Pego via the ‘straight of doom’, once again into a slight head wind - I think this road was deliberately built to have headwinds. Local knowledge meant that we cut out the normally obligatory 15 minute tour of Pego and headed straight for the foot of the climb. As it was a rest day we had all agreed that we were going to take it very easy on the climb. Fat chance. Actually, Keith was true to his word and span away but Dave insisted on turning it into a bit of a drag race up the hill. My bad, cos I responded to the challenge and we slugged it out up the lower slopes before I pulled away with a couple of kilometres to go. That’ll be KOM points for me, then (just don’t tell Keith).
Again, the views were great, and we stopped to enjoy for a few minutes before turning our attention to what promised to be a glorious descent back to Pego. It didn’t disappoint, the only downside being that it was all too short. The technical aspects of the descent make it great fun. Not sure Kev would enjoy it, mind. Once down we felt that a brew would be good and now did a thorough explore of Pego, in vain. It was shut. No café anywhere. What is it about Spain? Ah well, back to Denia then, and another blast down the ‘straight of doom’, three-up style at about 32mph. As we pedalled through Els Poblets, a small village about 10km from Denia, we spied a handy looking terrace café alongside the river. Lunch, we thought. And indeed, we were not disappointed. Full of Brits though it was, the beer and food was good and we admired the tenacity of the ex-pats who were doing their best to minimise effort by spending the entire afternoon without moving from their tables. Now, these people are really dedicated.
Total distance: 64.8km, ascent: 755m
Day 5: Guadalest and Tarbena
Thursday, the big day. Suitably rested after our short day before we were up early for this one, a 90+mile slog into the mountains. Keith who is a local expert having visited this area before had recommended we take a ride out to Guadalest as it is amazing to see. CicloCostaB also list it as one of their rides, so we thought why not. Our good friends at Easyjet gave us assurances that we could expect fine sunny weather, so it was summer tops and sunblock again. An early start was called for, not something which went down too well with Keith, but he humoured us. Terry and Andy decided to join us along with John, one of Terry’s fellow riders at CicloCostaB. Chris, on the other hand, decided this might be a ride too far and opted for a proper rest day.
So we set off, our peloton of 7, and headed out through familiar towns such as Pedreguer, Alcalali and Parcent before the road tilted
up and we were riding the road up to Castell de Castells once again. This time we didn’t have that nasty headwind, and the peloton eased along in the morning sunshine. Coffee and tortilla francaises in the spaghetti western bar fortified us before the peloton split, with Terry returning to Denia. Then there were 6. We now headed west over the mountains to Gorga, a long and winding road into the wilderness. Almond trees and scrub made this a desolate but beautiful place. Gorga was another one-horse sort of town, and our direction changed here. Now we headed south before joining the main road up into the Serra de Aitana range and climb to the Peurto de Ares, a 10km long ascent. Now the day’s hard work began and the race for KOM points was on. Andy led the way with Keith and Kev trading blows. Once again I found myself distracted by the views and the camera won out on a number of occasions.
At the top we regrouped as a team of Belgian female cyclists came up the col behind us. The descent from here is some 30km to the sea, though we were turning off before then. The first part of this long descent is fast and technical and we set off with the team of ladies close behind. Pretty soon there was a full-on race going on as Dave and Andy mixed it with the Belgians. Dave later told me this was his highlight of the week, the all out race down to Confrides really getting the adrenalin going. The rest of us followed but once again my camera was making frequent sorties from my pocket. The views were just awesome. Mountain scenery should all be like this. The guys would thank me later for capturing what they were missing. We all met up again at Guadalest, a sort of El Dorado in the mountains. A monastery sits atop a limestone outcrop in a way that only fairytales would normally allow. Sadly, such a spectacle attracts the tourists in their droves and the car parks are full of coaches. No matter, food was required (and a cheeky beer or two), and we sat amongst the Brits taking in the afternoon sun and soaking up the Blackpool-like atmosphere.
We still had a good few kilometres of descent down to Callosa, an industrial looking town not far from Benidorm, before we headed north again back up into the mountains. Oh no, not more climbing. The day was slipping away and we still had a fair way to go yet, with still another big categorised climb ahead of us, namely the Port de Tarbena. By now it was the hard men, Keith and Kev who were bagging the points and they sailed their way to the top whilst I kept John company at the back, saving myself for a later effort.
From Tarbena, we were on familar ground on the road to Coll de Rates. Knowledge of the parcours gave me my opportunity and I headed off up the road ahead of Keith and Kev, looking for a cheeky haul of KOM points. Too late they realised what I was up to and I crested the summit as they tried in vain to reel me in. Hey, that felt good!
One last descent now, the Coll de Rates down to Parcent, 7km of fast road, nothing too technical after a couple of hairpins at the top. Good fun. And then it was a bit of a haul as we rode the last 25km or so back to Denia, in formation before a local Spanish club cyclist got in amongst us and we suddenly found the pace rising as he tried to shake us off - unsuccessfully. Finally Denia hove into view and as the trip meter ticked round toward the 150km mark and the clock told us the sun was about to go to bed we coasted into the villa. Great day out, time for a curry!
Total distance: 148.6km, ascent: 2402m
Day 6: Vall de Gallinera and Vall de Ebo
Our last day on the bikes, and Easyjet SMS promised us a good one. The sun wasn’t shining yet, but it was warm enough and the prospect was a good day on the road. A light wind (no, actually, really quite light) meant that we weren’t going to suffer with our heavy legs after yesterday either. The plan was to ride a reverse of our second day, climbing the long 22km Vall de Gallinera and returning via Ebo and the amazing descent to Pego. A route to savour.
Chris was back in action today, rejuvenated after his rest day, sadly Dave was sitting this one out after suffering in the saddle all week. We were raring to go, so, once Keith was up and fed, we headed out on the road to Pego, yet again. This time the ‘straight of doom’ was actually quite enjoyable as we had a slight tail wind. This is almost unheard of and we were shocked. From Pego we started the long long climb which, I have to say, is a joy. The gradient is never more than about 4%, and wends its way, initially, through a winding gorge before opening out into the higher reaches of the valley. Kev and I rode tempo while Keith gave Chris a bit of a workout up ahead.
First stop was that little café/bar Ta Casa in Benissiva, half way up the climb. Sadly soup did not appear to be on the menu, though our mastery of Spanish was unable to confirm this. Instead we opted for a huge salad to accompany the usual omelettes. Mmmm. Thoroughly sated and with the clock having ticked away, we continued the climb in the sun which had now made an appearance. What a lovely day.
From Margarida (still shut) we now headed out over the plateau bound for Vall de Ebo. This turned out to be a lovely ride, despite a slight headwind. The road undulates but somehow didn’t seem quite as vicious as previously and before we knew it we were plunging down the 16% hill into Vall de Ebo itself. Kev was suffering today, not his usual KOM self, but all that remained now was the 3km climb to Alto de Ebo, a sharp little test. Kev and I again rode tempo allowing Keith and Chris to slug it out. The final reward of the week was another descent of Alto de Ebo into Pego. The bikecam was running and away we went. This is sheer cycling heaven and, once again, all too short.
All that remained now was one last run back to Denia, with a headwind on the ‘straight of doom’. Not to worry, Keith and Chris carried on where they left off on the climbs, while I gave Kev a wheel back to Els Poblets. Lunch and beer called. In the sun we sat and digested the events of the week and reflected on what we had got out of it. In terms of getting some early season miles this is definitely the way to do it. We had been so lucky with the weather, and had made the most of it. Job done.
Total distance: 96.4km, ascent: 1094m
Total for the week: 602.2 km, 8120m of climbing