Day 1: Thursday May 27th
The 4 Cols of the Apocalypse
There's nothing like a gentle start to our week here. You're right - this was nothing like a gentle start. Day 1 and bang, 4 big Pyrenean climbs to warm the legs up. An ambitious plan was hatched over a beer the night before. We would tackle the Peyresourde, the Aspin, the little known Hourquette d'Ancizan and return over the Peyresourde. A mere 70 odd miles and some 3200m of ascent. Easy!
I have to say I took advantage of Paul being a bit rusty, having not been on his bike for a month. As a result I raced up the Peyresourde as he laboured behind me, and on the final hairpins near the col I pulled away to take a convincing lead in the King of the Mountains competition. En route I have to say we had some marvellous views of the mountains in weather that was doing us proud. I know it's early days, but suddenly all those hours on the turbo and in the gym over winter were looking worthwhile.
The descent to Arreau is spectacular too, and the camera worked overtime. Arreau is beautiful, an old medieval market town, and it would have been rude not to stop for a coffee and crepes. Ahead we could see the Aspin leading up the steep hillside above the town. And soon we were following the tarmac on what is a lovely climb. Good gradients, fantastic views and a sprint finish which Paul took much to his delight. One apiece. Game on
The short descent to Payolle on the west side of the Aspin is quick and offers views of the Pic du Midi on a good day. Sadly, the good weather of earlier was giving way to overcast grey, but nothing to worry about yet. From Payolle the climb of the Hourquette is delightful, through wooded valley onto open fell, with a crafty sharp descent half way which surprises the legs. Yet again Paul was suffering for his inactivity and I summited well before he came in view. Time to play with the camera.
The descent back to Arreau was rough, a narrow poorly surfaced road which accentuated the problems I was having with my headset, a legacy of the bike reassembly after the flight. Note to self - must sort the bars and headset out tonight.
By now the clouds were heavy and the threatened rain finally began to fall as we started on the climb back over the Peyresourde. Again Paul was struggling and I ended the day comfortably in the lead with a hatful of mountain points. I suspected I would need it as the week went on. By the time Paul came over the summit it was cold and very wet, and we now faced a very damp descent to Luchon - yet again. So far we haven't done this descent in the dry.
Back at the car, 114km in our legs, at least we had dry clothes to change into and were soon warm again. It had been a testing first day, hard but good fun. Well, apart from the rain.
114km, 3215m of ascent
Day 2: Friday May 28th
Cockup in the Haute-Pyrenees
Our ambitions today were more limited, and the weather suggested this was a good plan. Low cloud, drizzle in the air. A real contrast to yesterday. The plan, such as it was, was to use the car and drive over to Loudenvielle, from where we could do a simple loop via Arreau and over the Col d'Azet-Val Louron climb. A leisurely breakfast, some good old-fashioned faffing, before loading the car with bikes and assorted bits, we headed over the Peyresourde and down to Loudenvielle. It was at this point that the discovery that my cycle shoes were still on the radiator in our room back in Bertren did not go down well. What a total wazzock!! We had little choice but to dismantle the bikes, get back in the car and drive once more over the Peyresourde and back to base. As wasted mornings go this was right up there.
Plan B then. The Col des Ares is a pleasant climb and has the advantage of being local to Bertren, just a 7 kilometer ride to the start. The climb itself is a bit like Hartside, 8km in length and steady gradient all the way up - ideal big ring territory, though maybe not today. Paul and I attacked the climb with some vigour, and I guess a bit of frustration. For some 4k we rode together before he finally broke me and eased away, though never too far in front. At the summit I found I was 3 minutes quicker than last year, Paul had taken less than 40 seconds out of me. Not bad for an old fart! The descent is a flowing, easy graded sweeping one and is to be enjoyed. We did.
All that remained today was to offload the hire car, easier said than done as we spent 45 minutes touring round the nearby town of St Gaudens trying desparately to find the Europcar offices. They are well hidden. Having finally exchanged the car for freedom, we headed back to Bertren on our bikes, and naturally enough discovered the headwind which made it a tough old ride.
Chris and Helen were back in situ by the time we returned, together with their C2C clients. We joined them for a raucous evening meal at a nearby restaurant and exchanged stories of Pyrenean travails and cycling exploits across the world. I think I drank too much!
52.5km, 490m of ascent
Day 3: Saturday May 29th
St Lary and Beyond
Having failed yesterday in our ambition to tackle the climb to Val Louron, Paul and I reconsidered our options today. The Weather was kind too, sunny and warming when we awoke. The plan was a circular ride, heading out west round to Arreau then up the valley to St Lary-Louron before tackling the climb over the Col d'Azet, returning over the Peyresourde. It was going to be a classic day out.
And so it proved. We headed out, gently at first cruising the roads past St Bertrand's spectacular village setting and then through wooded back roads to Arreau where we got our first glimpses of the big snow-clad Pyrenean giants. Spectacular or what? From here the main road to Spain gradually pulls up the valley giving ever more amazing views of the mountains before we finally reached the rather artifical village of St Lary.
The climb of Col d'Azet starts at the far end of town, and is a cracker. At just under 11km it is not long, but it climbs steadily with the most amazing views across to Plat d'Adet. And as you crest the summit the views east over Loudenvielle to the Peyresourde are equally stunning. Wow! Needless to say Paul was back on form, pacing himself better now and stormning past me with about 3 km to go to the summit. Chapeau.
After taking numerous photos from the summit we set out on the technical descent to Loudenvielle, wonderfully sinewy with numerous switchbacks. At one point a cow wandered across the road to enjoy the views - a hairy moment. We latched on to another cyclist on the descent and enjoyed a bit of friendly rivalry through the corners before he turned off bound for Arreau and we continued into Loudenvielle where our thoughts of a coffee were thwarted by the fact that everywhere was shut. How does that work?
Ah well, on up the Peyresourde then. From the west this is a shorter climb, but still long enough at 11km. And it was hot. I didn't thrash it and Paul was able to comfortably take the points - his day I think. We stopped awhile at the summit vafe to enjoy a beer and other refreshments before heading off down to Luchon. It made a splendid change to do this descent in the dry, the first time we have enjoyed this luxury. As a result we plunged the 13.5 km in only 18 minutes, amazing stuff. All that remained now was the 25km ride back down the valley to Bertren, into the ever-present headwind that always seems to blow up the Garonne valley. But a great ride, a great day.
Day 4: Sunday May 30th
Etape Recce Part 1: A Hard Day's Ride
So, the big one. Time to have a serious look at what the Etape holds in store for me this year. Certainly, compared to the 2008 version this year looks a degree tougher as well as being a bit longer. And with 3 big climbs it will certainly test the legs. We were being joined by Keith today, a fellow Eatpist who was over here staying with Chris and Helen specifically to have a look at the route. Chris drove the three of us over to Pau where we had a good look at the town before heading south to Oloron where we planned to start today's ride.
The weather was not being kind, Grey. overcast and a hint of rain in the air, but at least not cold or windy. Probably good for cycling on reflection. At Oloron we fell out of the van, assembled the bikes and headed out of town, bound for Escot where the Marie Blanque climb starts. Much of our route here is guesswork, who knows what they'll do come July 18th (no official route details as yet), but at Escot there is only one option. Up!! The Marie Blanque is a bit of a bugger, starting gentle, lulling the rider into a false sense of security, before kicking ever more steeply up as the climb progresses. The last 4 km to the summit are pretty brutal and, I guess, it will be here that Etape carnage will begin.
Paul was first over the top, predictably enough, but I wasn't far behind. Poor Keith was suffering with a cold but rode bravely in shortly after us. Chris smiled quietly as he watched us suffer. The descent is an enjoyable one, but requires some serious pedalling at times - surely descents shouldn't be hard work, it's just not right. Once down in the valley we picked up a rolling 30 km section where it will be opportunity to rest, take on food and generally recover come the big day. The next obstacle is the Soulor which is not to be underesitmated - I think we were all guilty of that before today. It is a long climb at 22km, but the first 10 are easy enough. Suddenly, though, at Ferrieres the road kicks up quite brutally, and from here it becomes a war of attrition. The upside are the views as the climb emerges high up on the mountainside, with views across to the dramatic Aubisque road. Awesome or what. Chris toyed with us, taking photos and cheering us on. Paul toyed with me, reeling me in and sailing past with 2km to go. I tried to stay with him but conceded to his strength. Strangely, as we reached the summit he sat up at the cafe and I rolled past him and over the summit finish to claim the points. Hoolow victory? No way, anything goes in these battles! Keith was not far behind us. We piled into the cafe to enjoy a brew.
Finally, we now enjoyed the last 20km, a long descent to Argeles from the Soulor. Again, time to recover, take food and enjoy. Paul and I did a two-up into Argeles where Chris was waiting to chauffeur us back to Bertren, some tea and wine. Job done. Well, half done. Tomorrow is the Tourmalet!